Origin
This scarf we call the Palestinian keffiyeh today has a fascinating history dating back to Sumerians and Babylonians in Mesopotamia. It is also known as a shemagh scarf, arab scarf, Palestinian hatta, yamegh, and igal. Prophet Mohammd (pbuh) used to wear the Shemagh as well. Donning the Shemagh has held many different meanings and uses over time and depending on location/culture. The symbolic meaning, color and style vary from one country to another and even from one region to another.
Traditionally worn by Palestinian farmers, during the Ottoman period the keffiyeh signalled that the wearer was rural, in contrast to the tarboosh (left) worn by the urban classes.
The black and white keffiyeh worn by Palestinian men of any rank, became a symbol of Palestinian nationalism during the Arab Revolt of the 1930s.
Yasir Arafat
Its prominence increased during the 1960s with the beginning of the Palestinian resistance movement and its adoption by Palestinian politician Yasser Arafat.
The black-and-white fishnet pattern keffiyeh would later become Arafat’s symbol and he would rarely be seen without it; only occasionally would he wear a military cap, or, in colder climates, a Russian-style ushanka hat. Arafat would wear his keffiyeh in a semi-traditional way, wrapped around his head via an agal.
Keffiyeh Factories
More than 5 decades ago there were more than 30 Kefiyeh factories operating in Palestine. Today there is only one factory in Hebron.
The factory was established in 1961, and used to operate more than 15 machines; today, after the import of cheaper keffiyehs produced in China started competing in the local markets, only 4 machines operate in the factory employing 15-25 workers.
Material & Making
The keffiyeh is a traditional Middle Eastern headdress fashioned from a square meter scarf, usually made of cotton. Some other factories make it with a fabric that is a mix of polyester and cotton or solely polyester.
The best quality ones are made from 100% cotton, like the ones made at the factory in Hebron. After the fabric goes through the machines and comes out with the embroidery, it is cut into square meter pieces and tassels and the tags are sewn on.
Keffiyeh & Fashion World
The keffiyeh in fashion today is a controversial topic among many people in Palestine, mainly because of the varied colors used instead of the original black-white and red-white color.
Many in the West buy and wear the it, transforming it into a fashion trend. The trend was booming two years ago in Europe, with few wearing it without knowing the origins and resemblance, hence making that an act of cultural appropriation.
Culture Appropriation by West
The keffiyeh print has been many times used in fashion by brands such as Topshop, ASOS, Cecilie Copenhagen, Boohoo or the Israeli brand Dodo Bar Or, bringing controversy and debates about cultural appropriation. In 2007, the American clothing store chain Urban Outfitters stopped selling keffiyehs (sold under the name of “anti-war scarves”) after facing criticism from “a pro-Israel activist … [who] complained about the items”.
Palestinian Solidarity
The wearing of the keffiyeh often comes with criticism from various political factions in the ongoing Israeli–Palestinian conflict. The slang “keffiyeh kinderlach” refers to young left-wing American Jews, particularly college students, who sport a keffiyeh around the neck as a political/fashion statement. While Western protesters wear differing styles and shades of keffiyeh, the most prominent is the black-and-white. This is typically worn around the neck like a neckerchief, simply knotted in the front with the fabric allowed to drape over the back.
